Fix your generic AVR power switch with simple easy steps

This image below is a Generic AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator)
(I do not own this image. Copyright belongs to its rightful owners)

Most people use this kind of AVR because it is rather cheap. But knowing as it is cheap, you might well expect that sooner or later you will encounter a problem. It may be the power switch losing its ability to pop & lock, or the AVR goes overheating (you'll know it when you smell something kinda' like a pan heating up on a stove/oven), or bad as it is it gets toast because of overloading, and worse of all burn your house down with you in it (yeah, i was over exaggerating).. Well, worst thing that could happen is fill your room with smoke when the AVR gets fried.

Well enough of that. In this post, I will give you a few simple steps to fix your AVR's power switch problem. You might already know what I mean 'cause you made it to this blog. But in case not, the power switch not being able to pop & lock. To make it more elaborate, when you try to hit the switch it just flexes back and not lock in place. This happens usually when trying to switch off. You won't be able to turn the AVR off unless you unplug it. 

Its always easy to just go and get a new one, but it wouldn't hurt to try and fix your broken AVR if you're trying to cut the expenses, right?

You don't need to be an expert to follow these steps, but if you do not have any background on electrical technics, then let me warn you that you shouldn't try to do this. I would recommend that you ask someone who's knowledgeable about technical stuffs. But then again, you don't need to be an Einstein to do this. Proceed at your own risk.

What you're gonna need:
- phillips and flat screwdriver

and maybe:

- replacement power switch (isolated black on/off switch)

- soldering rod

- soldering lead

- optional: soldering paste

Check your item warranty first before proceeding.

1. Disconnecting the AVR.

- Make sure the AVR is unplugged.

- Disconnect all plugs connected to the AVR.

2. Opening the AVR casing.

- Prepare a flat workstation, lined with any cloth or towel. You can use a shirt if you want.

    (not really necessary, but just to prevent your screws from bouncing off when you drop them)

- Unscrew carefully from the top to bottom. Do not lose the screws!

- Dust with a soft brush if needed.

- Once the AVR is open, avoid meddling with the other wires or components inside the AVR to prevent complications.

3. The tricky part. Removing the power switch. 

This will determine whether you need to replace the switch or not.

3.1 Try pressing the locks as hard as you can. Then try to toggle the switch on/off. If nothing's changed, continue to the next step. If the switch is able to pop & lock re-attach the switch and proceed to step 5.

3.2 Press the top and bottom locks with your index and thumb, and push a bit to the front. This should gain you a tiny gap between the front border of the switch and the AVR's front panel.

3.3 Unlocking the bottom. It will be difficult to unlock the bottom part if you unlock the top part first.

- Press the bottom lock with your index finger and push toward the front. With your other hand, assist with the flat screwdriver to pull out the front part using the AVR front panel as leverage. Its just like opening a top of a milk can or a paint can. Check if the switch pops & locks. If it does, proceed to step 5. If not, continue.

3.4 Unlock the top.

- Pretty much the same as unlocking the bottom, but preventing the bottom lock from retracting. Press with your thumb, push to the front, assist with the screwdriver by the other hand. Just make sure that the bottom won't lock back in place while doing the top. Check if the switch pops & locks. 

Usually at this point the switch already pops and locks. I find it strange but it does work like that. Maybe its because that the switch is made of hard plastic, that a little flexing and bending would put the loose mechanism back in place. Toggle the switch to see if it locks in place. If it does, re-attach the switch and proceed to step 5. If not, you may have to replace the switch. Continue to the next part.

If you are able to use a soldering rod, then proceed. If not, please ask someone who can.

4. Replacing the switch.

- Heat your soldering rod and desolder the two wires connected to the power switch. Be careful not to burn yourself.

It's up to you if you want to remember which wire goes to where. But just for FYI, this switch is just a simple light switch. Its meant to connect and disconnect.

- Attach the new switch onto the front panel. The | mark goes at top, and O on the bottom.

- Solder the wires onto the new switch. You may use soldering paste to ensure proper soldering (To use a solder paste, you just have to dip the wire being soldered to the paste before soldering. You may also apply a small amount to the switch's port). 

- Make sure that there's no contact between the two wires. Two wires touching would only make the switch useless.

5. Replace cover and screw from bottom to top.

6. Test the AVR.

- Do not plug anything on the AVR.

- Plug the AVR onto your correct power socket.

     - Test the switch if it functions properly.

          - If it is always on, then there must be something you did wrong. Check to see that there's no contact between the two wires that you soldered earlier. (applies only to the replaced switch)

          - If it turns on and off, job well done.

So that's it. I hope this helps. Have a good day!